Bob's Handy Dandy Hints and Tips

 
Search here for appliance repair answers to problems you're having. Scroll down for the question that best suits your problem then read through the list of possible causes/ remedies. These are only a few of the many problems that can require some sort of appliance repair. Here, we try to address the most common problems.
Remember; If you're in the San Diego area, we're here to help if the job gets too big. Or, you can contact us for specific advice.
If your appliance is electronic, it may generate "Fault Codes" to help you more accurately pinpoint the problem. We've provided a link for your convenience.
(Go to: http://www.repairclinic.com)



FISHER & PAYKEL DISHDRAWERS

BEWARE OF "FACTORY AUTHORIZED" SCAMMERS!
THERE ARE SOME DISHONEST SERVICERS CLAIMING TO BE "FACTORY AUTHORIZED" TO SERVICE YOUR DCS and FISHER & PAYKEL EQUIPMENT. THESE MACHINES ARE QUITE SOPHISTICATED FROM MOST OTHERS AND AN UNTRAINED SERVICER WILL LIKELY CAUSE MORE HARM THAN GOOD. (I CLEANED UP A REAL MESS- AFTER ONE LADY HAD A SERVICER OUT WHO DIDNT KNOW WHAT HE WAS DOING... HER DISHWASHER CAUGHT FIRE AFTER HE LEFT! IF IN DOUBT ABOUT YOUR SERVICER, CALL FISHER PAYKEL DIRECTLY (888 936 7872) AND ASK.

Being Authorized Fisher Paykel and DCS AND U-Line servicers, we get factory training every year, being brought up on the latest advances and really know these appliances well. Allow us to help you avoid what might be a huge headache (and maybe even fix it yourself!)

The older 602 model:
These appliances used an inflatable tubular seal (PN 525878) that goes around the perimeter of the wash tub. An exhaust valve closes, and an air pump inflates the seal. When the wash concludes, the exhaust valve opens and the seal deflates. This system was an excellent way of sealing the tub during the wash process. Unfortunately, many consumers were damaging the seal by accidentally nicking it when the drawer was shut. So the engineers came up with a different method of sealing, and hence the model 603.
Solution: Be sure that nothing going into the drawer is higher than the drawer rim. This way there's very little chance of nicking the seal.
Another problem with these units was the drain hose (PN 527137) repeatedly flexing at the "knee" joint behind the drawer. Eventually it would split and cause a leak. It’s a repair which is best left to a professional. Also if the unit is a double drawer model, save some time and aggravation by repairing both top and bottom drain hoses together.

The 603:
The 603 uses a drop-down lid to seal the wash tub. Two motors on the sides of each drawer drive jackscrews, raising and lowering the lid onto the wash tub. Early models used a motor that was relatively unprotected against the effects of moisture. You can tell the early motors by their white plastic case. As moisture corroded the motor windings, motor torque would diminish. Ergo; diminished ability to seal the wash tub. A new design (with help from BMW) with a completely sealed case resolved this issue. Another problem was the link support between the chassis and drawer. The original link was white plastic and prone to snapping in the middle, causing an eventual F1 error or leak. Fisher & Paykel redesigned the link support to an all metal design that resolved this problem once and for all.

The 605:
This unit is still so new on the market that we havent seen many yet, Fisher & Paykel has put a lot of refinements into this unit, clearing away several problems that persisted in the earlier units. We don't anticipate seeing many of these at all...


The Ever- So- Helpful Diagnostics Mode -----
Getting into the Diagnostics Mode:
Press the LOCK and START / PAUSE buttons simultaneously and hold for 5 seconds.
The unit will beep once
Press the POWER button once, and you are now in diagnostics mode.
Pressing the START / PAUSE button sequentially advances the machine through the various functions you will want to test.
Start and stop each function by pressing the LOCK button.
A strong word or caution: DO NOT ENERGISE THE HEATER PLATE function (ER) without water in the tub or the heater will burn out.
The tech sheet containing all fault codes, test values, and a schematic is located behind the lower drawer at the back wall.
Exit diagnostics by pressing power off.

Q: F1 ERROR. The unit is beeping, both drawers are flashing F1 and won't stop running.
A: Your appliance has experienced the ubiquitous F1 flood error. The only way to stop the beeping is to remove power. Your course of action depends on the next step. You need to look BEHIND the lower unit drawer. Remove power, then open the lower drawer all the way, and press those plastic tabs (down at the sides, along the bottom and just below the round buttons)- inwards. Now slide the drawer out a couple inches more. You can now see behind the drawer.
Is there water in the catch pan? If no, the Mains Filter Board beneath that plastic cover in the back is bad. It thinks it's flooded while in fact it is not. Replace it. (PN 525959P) It is also remotely possible that one of the wiring harness is faulty.
If there IS water back there, you need to find where it's coming from. Usually, the fill (PN 526836) and drain hoses (PN 527137) are NOT at fault. Go into Diagnostics Mode, and operate the water fill valve (FV), and look for leaks at the valve and along the fill hose as the tub fills.
(You'll want to remove that large plastic cover in the back to see the valves and hoses coming from them. Lift the drawer off its rails and set it off to the left if there's space for it. Upper drawer, set it on top of the bottom drawer).
Operate the drain pump (P2) and look for leaks in the drain line. If no water is seen leaking from those sources, go on to the Lid Motors and the Link Supports.
First inspect the link support (that white plastic rod that spans the tub service lines). They typically snap in two at the mid span point. If it's snapped, there's your problem. Replace it with the updated link support. (PN 528437) Also run the Lid Motors (LD). As they transition up and down, do they respond strongly, or do they sound weak and labored? If the motors are in a white plastic case, you have the old motors and they will need replacing soon anyway. When they grow weak their ability to pull the seal down strongly is diminished (PN's 528112 Top, and 528113 Bottom)
Should you get an F1 error code on the TOP UNIT ONLY, it means that the LOWER UNIT has experienced some failure in the Water Heating Circuit. You will need to test those components to detect what has failed. Get out the trusty schematic and your multimeter!

Q: F2 ERROR. My unit is showing an F2 error on one of the drawers. Or I hear a buzzing sound when the machine is washing
A: F2 means that the rotor (PN 525884P) is sensed to not be turning, It could be a small piece of food debris, a tiny fragment of a shell or broken glass, has gotten lodged in the wash impeller, or it could be a seized bearing. The buzzing sound is most likely a burr on the lower portion of the wash rotor. Remove the rack, then the filter plate (the large silver plate with all the holes in it), and then the wash impeller (the blue finned "fan" in the middle). While looking at the lower rotor, be sure that its fins are crisp and sharp with no flashing or burrs. Remove burrs with a razor blade. Does the fan spin freely? If not, try a few drops of lubricating oil on the bearings while working the rotor back and forth trying to free it up. Is there anything in the cup that would prevent the rotor from turning? (fragment of glass, shell, etc)

Q: U1 ERROR.
A: U1 means the unit has failed to prime with water within 3 minutes. Its taking longer than expected to fill with water. Check the fill valve, water supply problem, spray arm not in place, excessive foaming (using hand-dishwashing soap?).

Q: When one unit drains the other drawer fills with water. What's happening?
A: One unit is back-flowing into the other. The flapper valve in each drawer is supposed to prevent this problem, but with the gunk in our San Diego water, these flapper valves don't seat completely, and to do their job, that is essential. We adjust the dish-drawer drain lines so that this problem is eliminated. We can fax you a diagram if you want to do this yourself.
Note: A peculiarity of these machines is that anytime the water level in the tub is at, near, or above the top of the spray arm, the unit will NOT drain out no matter what. Bail out the drawer until the water level is closer to the lower surface of the spray arm and then the machine will resume normal draining.

Q: Sometimes the cycle selection pads won't work. What happened?
A: The cycle selection pads employ the same technology used in those "touch on- touch off" lamps, or static capacitive switching. The pads have gotten WET. Completely dry the selector pads area and the function should return to life lickety-split.

Q: The lid seal is in the down position and wont release the drawer,
A: If the lid motors are ok, (see: Diagnostics Mode) the machine may have experienced an internal software communication error. The problem is often easily resolved by removing power for a few minutes and allowing the microprocessor to reboot. It's worth mentioning here that anytime the machine exhibits strange behavior (like playing a tune, or the Australian National Anthem!) it will harm nothing to first try removing the power for a few minutes to see if the controller reboots itself.

Q: The dishes are not coming out dry
A: Be sure that you use rinse aid. The machine has no drying heat element. It relies on the residual heat of the dishes to dry themselves, while a small fan draws air through the drawer. Plastic items will not dry as well as china / glass due to their low thermal mass.

Q: What can I do to prevent these problems?
A: The most important thing to be mindful of is that these units cannot take large or tall items. If any objects project above the top of the drawer, they will block the lid from completely closing / sealing the tub and it WILL cause a flood. Just before starting the unit, look across the top of the drawer. Is any portion of the wash load projecting above the top of the drawer? If it is, it MUST be removed or repositioned to that it is BELOW the top of the drawer.

Use FRESH (less than 1 month old) quality powdered detergent. NEVER liquid. Always use a "Rinse-Aid" agent, and be sure the rinse aid cap is on securely.

Remember: NOTHING can protrude above the top surface of the drawer! It's also important that nothing protrudes BELOW the rack so as to impede the rotation of the spray arm. Doing so causes the spray arm to be immobilized, continually directing its spray to one part of the lid seal, where it will eventually get past and leak.

Fisher-Paykel Dish-drawers are really great, innovative machines. They use only a pittance of water and electricity compared to other dishwashers, and still do a darn good job of cleaning. Newer units already have the improvements incorporated that make these machines very reliable. We upgrade many of these each week and seldom have recalls so long as the consumer understands the mild eccentricities of them.
There's more that could be said here, but we're addressing answers to the most commonly found problems. If you have any other questions, feel free to contact us here on our "contact us" page, or call us at 858 229 8753


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OTHER DISHWASHERS
1. To clean, sanitize and thoroughly dissolve detergent, the water should be at least 140 Degrees. Before starting, run HOT water in your sink to get hot water up in your pipes.
2. Use quality dishwasher detergent. Liquids have wax & line the ducting, gradually constricting them. Avoid large quantities that set, as they lose strength over time.
3. Lightly pre-rinse dishes, but leave most for the detergent. (If the load is too clean, phosphoric enzymes go after your glassware instead, irreversibly etching them.
4. Bi-weekly, run your empty dishwasher with Citric Acid Crystals (available at: www.bulkfoods.com) Also, most spray arms can be easily repaired. The spray jets are cleared by lightly rapping the arm on a hard surface to dislodge buildup. Use a pin to clear orifices.
5. If your dishwasher isn’t draining well, check the Air Gap on your sink-top and make sure it’s clear. Or, the inlet to the dispose-all may be plugged. Be SURE TO PULL THE PLUG before putting your hand in there!
6. Load dishes facing the center, with tall items to the side. Be sure the detergent cup can pop open, & slender utensils don’t extend above or below the rack so as to impede rotation of the spray arms.
8. Apply touch-up paint and vinyl caps to rust spots on the racks when you see them. (A rusted-out rack is expensive to replace) A good idea is leave the door ajar for an hour afterward.

Q: Dishwasher leaks
A: If unit leaks at or near door top edges, slightly "tweaking" the door one way or the other may repair the leak. If unit is newer GE, Maytag, Jenn-Air or Whirlpool, the door seal may have become hardened and permanently indented by the door. (PN 902894) Other sources; fill line, main pump / motor seal gone bad, spray arm holes clogged, or spray arm split along seam (PN 99001788), dispenser seal leaking (PN 9901551) and foam seal (PN 903233) (Maytag)

Q: Maytag dishwasher not cleaning well.
A: Filter ring (PN 99001791 ) clogged, 4-arm balance rotor clogged, spray arm clogged, loose or broken wash impeller, water level too low (pump cavitating- water has turned into foam- did somebody put HAND dishwashing soap in there?), soap dispenser not opening,

Q: Kitchenaid dishwasher has stopped dead.
A: Most likely thermal fuse blown in control module. (PN 675813) 
Also look at the door latch assy (PN 8193830) There are two frail plastic tabs that depress two switch levers when the door is latched. If either of them breaks (and they do) the machine won't start, though it WILL power up.

Q: Kitchenaid dishwasher door pops open during wash cycle
A: (This is the type that has the no press-to-unlatch handle. You just pull to open and shut down) Could be a broken Door Tensioner cord, But more likely a weak spring in the door latch assy (pn 8193830 OR 8193882)

Q: GE dishwasher won't drain
A: Drain solenoid (PN WD21X802- common) stuck/ failed, timer

Q: GE or Bosch dishwasher wont run, makes buzzing noise
A: If the unit has not been run in a while the ceramic seal is stuck to the mating carbon ring surface. Reach under the unit and wiggle the motor fan back and forth until the seal breaks free.

Q: Bosch or Kitchenaid dishwasher doesn't wash well
A: If every thing seems to be operating normally, but the wash just isn't coming out as clean as it should, it could be food and/ or other debris lodged at the intake port of the wash pump. You'll need a size 25 Torx screwdriver to remove the spray arm, cover, secondary filter and pump cover to see if there is gunk iat the inlet port. You'll also need to pry the upper spray arm water supply conduit away with out breaking anything. Be careful!

Q: Bosch dishwasher doesn't fill well.
A: Bosch units tend to go through water valves rather quickly (PN 425428). Also the touch pads on electronic models eventually flex and break. Replace the controller module.

Q: My Bosch diswasher seems to be taking forever to complete the cycle.
A: Many Bosch units have a problematic control module where a burnt or loose solder joint exists on the water heating relay circuit. If this is the case, a close examination of the solder joints (particularly around the relays) may reveal a poor connection. A dab with your soldering tip and you may be back in business as easily as that.



REFRIGERATOR
Q: Refrigerator not cold enough
A: Condenser coil clean? (keep in good condition by cleaning every year). Especially important for folks in dusty places or have pets...
Compressor running? Is it cool, warm or too hot to handle? (Ideal: very warm)
(Condenser / Evaporator) fans running?
Check: cold control, defrost timer not advancing out of defrost, compressor start-run relay/overload (common on Whirlpool), fans for shorted/ open circuits, Low on refrigerant (leaking)
Evaporator iced up? (ideally a light frosting on the overall coil surfaces)
Check: Defrost timer, door seals, defrost heater and thermostat, Adaptive Defrost Control (Maytag- PN 61005988) Note: some folks have had sucess in repairing their ADC board by replacing the C2 capacitor.....
Evaporator thawed out with ice ball or small portion of coils frosted?
Check: System is low on refrigerant. Repair & recharge ($$$), or replace unit

Q: Refrigerator leaking water
A: Defrost drain plugged, Broken ice/ water fill lines, (common on some GE units-look around compressor), Ice/ water valves leaking. Condensate drain pan (next to compressor) cracked or rusted through. Some GE built-in units have a problem with water and ice down the back of the freezer wall. Although the evaporator is on the top, the defrost drain heater is bad and has allowed the drain conduit to the condensate pan to ice over. Each time the machine goes into a defrost mode the ice runoff flows down the back instead of to the pan. A BIG job... best left to the tekkie guys...  

Q: Freezer cold, fresh food box is not
Evaporator iced up, Fresh food damper door closed / sticking / blocked with ice, Door seals torn, Defrost timer stuck in defrost mode
(Frost/ ice buildup just inside the door means door seal isn’t completely closing in that spot. Also check around the ice cube dispenser chute.)

Q: Hot Compressor runs short while then shuts off. Process repeats ever 10-15 min.
A: Over-current relay tripping. Check: compressor windings (typ. resistance: run to common- 5 ohms, start to common- 7 ohms), replace start/ run relay assy. Common on Whirlpool.

Q: Icemaker not making ice
A: Freezer not cold enough (between 0-8 deg. F). Evaporater iced up. Water valve failed, water fill tube iced over (common), bad harvest thermostat on icemaker, open heater circuit on icemaker (replace icemaker), bad icemaker head.  

Q: GE water/ Ice dispenser not working
A: Bad time delay board (PN WR55X129), bad 4 way water valve, water in lines frozen

Q: Maytag makes ice, but water/ ice dispenser not working
A: Bad power relay board, (PN 61003421), bad switch board (corroded) (PN 61003425)
Ice chute solenoid (common on GE) bad (PN 12001991)

Q: Whirlpool icemaker not working (Ice bin in door types)
A: Newer units now have an optics board that casts a NIR beam of light across the ice bin, A full ice bin blocks the path of the beam and tells the icemaker to stop producing ice. Could be the optics boards or the icemaker itself. Theres a very detailed check out routine on those tech sheets... read carefully and run test a few times.

Q: Frigidaire low to mid-range refrigerator not cooling well, or at all
A: These Fragile-aire units have unreliable compressors that fail often. Don't buy one in the first place; too expensive to repair if out of warranty

Q: U-Line refrigerator / wine chiller getting power but not cooling
A: If the unit is the older variety with mechanical controls, the most likely culprit is the cold control. Prove this by jumping across the CC to see if the compressor runs. If the unit is newer and run by digital microprocessor controls, the problem may be several: a bad thermister, a bad control board, bad compressor start device, bad fan motor.

General rule for all refrigerators: Keep door seals clean, especially along bottom where spilled sticky foods accumulate. If refrigerator has condenser coils mounted vertically along the back of the box, leave at least 2 inches between them and the wall. Sub-Zero and Kitchenaid built in refrigerators are very susseptable to condensor coil lint clogging. Make it imperitave to vacuum the coil out at least once a year.

Make it your once a year routine to clean the condensor coils of your refrigerator, especially Kitchenaid, GE Monogram, and Sub-Zero.
A dirty condensor will not only cost you more in energy bills but if left long enough can destroy the refrigerator's sealed system. ($$$ repair)



MICROWAVE OVEN
A WARNING TO YOUR HEART …
Voltages present inside a microwave oven are extremely high and lethal. Because of the high potential for injury or death, it is not recommended that you attempt to any repairs to these appliances by yourself. (Let us risk our lives...)

Q: Arcing and sparking inside?
A: Check the interior of the appliance for splatters of food or boiled over liquid. Repair by cleaning thoroughly, especially on and around the mica panel situated either at the top or side of the unit. Any bare metal spots inside the cavity will cause arcing. There is a repair paint (go to: http://www.repairclinic.com/) intended solely for microwave ovens

Q: Microwave Oven is totally dead
The power control module or the main line fuse has probably blown. It’s tempting to replace the fuse and go on, but that fuse blew for a good reason, and it should not be operated until it can be checked out by a knowledgeable technician.

Q: Light bulb burned out
A: microwave cavity lamp can be easily changed without opening the cabinet or exposing one’s self to dangerous voltages.

Q: Display is lit but no heat?
Check: door switch (primary or secondary), bad control module.

Q: Door appears to be warped or tweaked?
Do not use the unit! Call a professional that can check for radiation leakage.

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WASHING MACHINE
Between washes, shut off water at the wall. It eases the strain on the hoses. Away for extyended period? shut off all water sources, set water heater to lowest temp. setting.

Q: Machine is dead
A: Voltage at the wall socket? Power to the timer? Bad control module

Q: Machine won't fill.
A: Water valves on? Water pressure good? Valve inlet screens clear? Voltage to the valves? Selector switch faulty

Q: Washer fills, then drains (over and over)
Is the drain hose outlet at least as high as the top of the wash basket?

Q: Water valves won't shut off?
A: Disconnect power… Does the flooding stop? If no, replace the valves.
If yes, check timer for stuck contact

Q: Fisher Paykel wont drain out
A: If the water only continues to recirculate from the 2 o'clock position, you have a bad diverter valve. Also can be a small article of clothing caught in the pump impeller.

Q: Machine shakes in spin?
A: Does it shake with an empty tub? If no, balance wash load. Cabinet solidly on all four feet? Placing a thick plywood plank beneath it may help. Tub springs all in place? Tub main bearing worn? Whirlpool DD Models: Motor counter-balance spring broken? Neptune models: see below.

Q: Machine won't agitate or spin and motor not running?
A: Maytag: Check switch, lid switch, timer
Whirlpool: Lid switch, cycle selector switch, timer
Frigidaire: Door lock switch

Q: Machine won't agitate or spin and motor is running?
A: Maytag: check drive belts, motor tensioner springs
Whirlpool: check motor/ transmission coupler (direct drive models), bad transmission, water level switch

Q: Machine Leaks?
A: Check: (Maytag) injector nozzle, fill/ drain hoses, house standpipe backing up? Leak in outer tub, tub to pump hose, drain pump, main spin tub bearing, water splashing over top (large loads)

Q: Everything else ok but no spin?
A: Lid switch, stuck water level switch, loose belt, motor tensioner loose

Q: Machine won't drain
A: Check drain pump for obstructions (common on GE Models), drain pump is operating? Clogged with small article of clothing (common on Whirlpool)

Q: Machine reluctant to spin (tries to spin- but just isnt happening)
A: (Maytag) Most likely Clutch / Brake Helix drive is worn out. Rel. small job.
Whirlpool: Clutch assy worn. Fairly labor intensive job
GE: Worn out clutch assy. Very labor intensive job, requiring a lot of adjustment trial and error to get right.

Q: Maytag Neptune making awful noise when it spins.
A: The main spin bearing is bad. Very costly job. Consider getting another washer.
(DIY'ers visit: http://beesmart-ezway.com)

Q: Maytag Neptune won't spin
A: Most likely the Machine Controller is bad, spin enable circuit is open, motor controller faulty. Door motor and machine controller replacement required. NOTE: the door latch mechanism will have a wax motor. If the stem on the motor is the same color as the body, it must be replaced before the Motor Control Board is changed, or the wax motor will just wipe it out as well. The correct wax motor will have a reddish body with a BLACK stem. Look for a burned out resister (R-11) on the machine control board.  
(DIY'ers visit: http://members.shaw.ca/gavb)

Q: Maytag Neptune starts and then shuts down after a few minutes and may flash a code
A: The motor drive system experienced a momentary loss of Neutral Line feed from the power cord to the Motor Control Board. This neutral line passes across the water valve solenoids. Check the neutral line (white) wires to all of the water valve solenoid connections, including the bleach and softener valves. Models with a display will code "LR". Models without displays will simply shut down. Make sure all the connections to the water valve are clean, tight and secure. Arrange the wiring to these valves to be as far as possible from other wires as stray line noise can enter the wires through EM induction

Q; Maytag Neptune shakes excessively
A: The machine spins quietly when the wash chamber is empty but really goes wild with clothes inside, check the cement counterweights to be sure they are secure. Check the front support springs near the top and front. Are they in place? Do they appear to be sprung? If all that is ok, you have bad shock absorbers, located in the lower back. Its a bit of a job to do, but with patience, you can master the task.

SOME NOTES ON THE WHIRLPOOL DUET WASHER...
In my opinion, the Whirlpool Duet is among the best front load washers out there today, along with the Frigidaire gallery and the Staber. It is however still not immune from problems. I'll point out a few that I've experienced...

FILL PROBLEMS: one of the weaker links in the fill system is the flow meter. The problem gets annunciated by an F-H error code. The flow meter either sticks, binds or produces weak signal to the MCU- until it decides that there is no water entering the machine (even if there is) Replace the flow meter.

F-2 Long Drain. We see this one a lot. The culprits are obstructions in the drain line, like a sock, panties, bra under-wire, or something else small- lodged in the pump impeller preventing it from turning. Something else that has been appearing is a pump system that works prefectly fine when its tested manually, but during the wash cycle the error appears. Replace the MCU as a last resort, but chances are- the drain pump is still whats giving you grief. Seem these pump motors (actually a common on many machines) are tempermental and give fits quite randomly. Sometimes they will work just fine And the very next time you try it it will just buzz and vibrate at you. Try it again and it's as though nothing ever happened. Just get yourself a brand new pump.

Q: Theres a loud knocking sound comfroming from Duet when it spins
A: The Cement counter balances my be loose or the shock dampers might be getting worn. But, I've seen a few units where the knocking is from the breather manifold having come loose in the back of the machine. Forget about that cheesy cap that's supposed to hold it in place. get inventive and design something better! I KNOW you can do it!

DOOR LOCK / LATCH Mechanism:
Too often this component gets mis-diagnosed as faulty. The assembly consists of two switches and two counter- wound coil solenoids. Its easy to decide the door switch is bad by just testing continuity on the switch leads. This won't prove anything, unless the coil to close the door lock gets energised. Only then can you test the switch reliably.

AND AS LONG AS WE'RE DISHING ABOUT FRONT LOADERS...
It's vitally important that you ALWAYS use QUALITY, HIGH- EFFICIENT (HE) detergents. Failure to do so will result in poor wash, premature main spin bearing failure and microprocessors spitting out "SUDS" error codes. If you own a Front Load Washer, You have to use HE detergents. ITS THAT SIMPLE.



DRYER
Q: Dryer warm but clothes take long to dry?
A: Dryer is dirty with lint inside, vent is excessively long, or filled with lint. FIRE HAZARD!
Lint screen clean?
(The house dryer vent line is notorious for being neglected and most people don't even consider that it needs to be cleaned out periodically. For an average family, about once every 2-3 years is about right. There are services that specialize in nothing but dryer vent cleaning, or with a vent cleaning brush on a 12 foor wire wound coil, you can get it done yourself.)
Intermittant burner coils, faulty thermostats. reduced airflow through machine (lint), If dryer is electric, getting 240 VAC from the wall? Check both rails of the 240 VAC supply… may be getting only 120 VAC.

Q: Drum turns but no heat at all?
A: Gas: Burner component failed. Check coils, flame switch, igniter, motor centrifugal switch, thermal fuse, thermostat, hi-limit thermostat, broken belt switch.
Electric: Centrifugal switch, heater element, thermal fuse, thermostat, hi-limit thermostat, broken belt switch

Q: Drum wont turn?
A: Motor turning? Broken belt, seized belt idler wheel, foreign object jammed in drum.

Q: Scraping sound?
A: Worn rollers, worn glides, cabinet has shifted (common on many Frigidaire)

Q: Dryer getting too hot?
A: Stuck thermostat, airflow backing up from restriction in line FIRE HAZARD!

Q: Rumbling sound (particularily noticible when the dryer starts)
A: Worn out blower wheel. very common on Maytag models, also some Frigidaire. Hardly ever on a Whirlpool.

Q: Dryer runs normally then shuts down for about 10-15 minutes then starts back up again by itself.
A: Drum motor over-current or thermal relay is tripping. Probably due to hot air being blown against the motor. Check vent connections, clean out dryer / house vent.

Dryer vent Wizard: sgors@dryerventwizard.com

By the way, you DO have a FIRE EXTINQUISHER in your laundry room, right?

If you don't...
            WHY NOT?

OVEN / RANGE
Q: Problems after putting oven in self clean mode?
A: Failed thermal sensor (electronic), failed Electronic Oven Control, failed hi-limit fuse / thermostat, failed door lock motor / thermostat, 
My Advice: DO NOT USE THE SELF CLEAN MODE. PERIOD. Most oven calls are after the customer goes there... If the unit is high end, a replacement EOC will cost a bundle to replace. I've seen electrical components melt from the extreme heat of a self clean cycle.

Q: Electronic cooktop (REIG) igniters won't shut off or turn on
A: Dirty/ failed/ cracked igniter electrodes, loose high tension lead connections, failed re-ignition (REIG) module, poor grounding, polarity of wiring reversed, failed spark module. The thing to remember about a REIG module is that once the sparking electrode serves to light off the gas, it switches into a" flame sense" mode to continually keep proving the flame. That's why if the flame should go out, the REIG module will start sparking again till the burner lights. What you're looking for is a portion of the burner flame licking or being in contact with the spark electrode. The flame allows a small (read: micro-amp) current to flow from the electrode THROUGH the flame- and into the chassis ground.

Q: Cooktop flames uneven, poor lighting
A: Dirty burners, flame ports clogged, burner cap not on correctly

Q: Oven won't light
A: Gas: Failed oven thermostat, oven igniter, safety valve, hi-limit thermostat open, Failed EOC
Electric: Failed heat element, only 120 of 240 volts available, oven thermostat, EOC, high limit thermostat

Q: Oven temps incorrect
A: Failed thermal sensor, EOC bad, oven temperature control bad or out of calibration, door seal leaking, gas supply low, only 120 of 240 volts available. Most electronic models can be calibrated to +/- 25 deg.

Q: Electric Oven not heating, controls functional
A: Check the high limit fuse, or thermal limiter. Usually looks just like a dryer thermostat, and can be a one time device, or have a resettable button. On many units you will find this on the back of the oven (sorry Charlie, you'll have to take the oven out from the wall) or on the top of the oven cavity (if you're lucky). Dacor units seem to like to blow early for some reason... Fortunately. they're resettable. And of course, you're just asking for troubles when you put the unit is SELF- CLEAN mode. Another possibility could be the house power lines to the oven loose or burnt through. Some homes were built with Aluminum wires to the oven (a VERY bad idea). Unlike copper, aluminum corrodes, and weakens the connection to the point that it can become HOT... enough to burn through the connector or EVEN START A FIRE. Fortunately I've seen very few aluminum wires in houses, but still enough that the homowner ought to be concerned.

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